Asirgarh: The fort with secret tunnels and hidden water channels

Asirgarh (also known as Assergarh) Fort is almost like a riddle carved into the rocks in the Satpura ranges of the Burhanpur district in Madhya Pradesh. Often termed as the ‘Key to the Deccan,’ this hill fort once controlled the strategic gateway between northern and southern India.

However, beyond its walls and bastions, what truly sets Asirgarh apart is what lies under the fort. It hides a labyrinth of underground tunnels, chambers and passageways that have fuelled legend, military strategy and mystery for centuries.

Folklore and legends

Little is known about when and how the fort was built. Historical accounts say it was first built by a herdsman named Asa Ahir, giving it the name Asirgarh.

However, local legends connected to the Shiva temple inside the fort trace its origins much further back, to the time of the Mahabharata.

According to beliefs, Ashwatthama, a formidable warrior in the Mahabharata, would come here to worship Lord Shiva. Folklore has it that, being immortal, he visits the temple even today after taking a dip in the nearby Tapi River.

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Over time, the fort changed hands from Ahirs to Farooqis of Khandesh, the Mughals, and later the Marathas, before finally falling to the British in 1819.

For the Mughals, Asirgarh was indispensable. Whoever held this fort controlled trade, troop movement and communication between Malwa and the Deccan. Emperor Akbar himself is known to have taken a keen interest in its capture because the fort was less vulnerable to direct attacks and more dependent on internal supply systems, particularly water and access routes hidden underground.

Also Read: Khuni Bhandara: The underground water harvesting system in Burhanpur

A hidden fortress under the fort

Asirgarh’s underground tunnel network is what differentiates it from other grand forts. These tunnels were not mere escape routes. They served military, logistical and psychological purposes.

Historical accounts and local folklore suggest that the tunnels connected different levels of the fort, allowing troops to move unseen during times of war. They linked key points, like water reservoirs, granaries and armouries, and possibly extended towards the Burhanpur town, over 20 km away.

The tunnels were wide enough in places for horses and armed soldiers, with ventilation shafts cut vertically to allow airflow and light. Some passages were designed with sharp turns, sudden drops and false exits, confusing invaders unfamiliar with the layout.

British records from the early 19th century note extreme difficulty in navigating these tunnels. Many were sealed or collapsed deliberately after the British takeover, partly out of fear that rebels could use them, and partly due to persistent legends surrounding them.

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Even today, several tunnel mouths are visible within the fort complex. However, the entry is restricted due to safety concerns. Locals speak of chambers that maintain a constant cool temperature year-round and of sounds that echo unnaturally. They have led to rumours about stories of haunting, but are possibly the result of acoustic design.

Multi-layered engineering

Unlike single-summit hill forts, Asirgarh is a three-tier fort complex comprising the Malaygarh, Kamargarh, and the unassailable Asirgarh. Visitors can reach the top via stairways, while adventure seekers can choose a more challenging path.

The view from the summit is breathtaking, narrating the glorious tales of the great dynasties that once ruled here. Each of the three layers had its own defensive walls, gateways and watch points, making any advancing army fight uphill repeatedly.

The fort is constructed primarily of basalt stone, quarried locally. Its thick ramparts were designed to absorb artillery impact. It is among the few forts of India where bastions are positioned to create overlapping lines of fire, while narrow gateways force attackers into exposed bottlenecks.

Water harvesting below and above ground

Asirgarh’s ability to withstand long sieges depended heavily on its water systems, many of which were connected to the tunnel network. The fort has large rock-cut cisterns, stepwells and covered reservoirs protected from evaporation.

Rainwater from the upper plateau was channelled through stone conduits into underground tanks, ensuring a year-round supply. Some tunnels are believed to have doubled as water channels or access routes to tanks.

Today, most water structures are non-functional, though several cisterns still collect rainwater during the monsoon. The engineering principles, however, remain clearly visible and remarkably intact.

Asirgarh is not associated with a single heroic ruler or dramatic last stand. Instead, its value lies in its geopolitical role. It was a fort of control and surveillance. The layered defences and underground systems reflect a time when warfare depended as much on logistics and psychology as on brute force.

The fort also holds religious and cultural significance, housing ancient temples, mosques and shrines within its complex. They are living evidence of continuous occupation across dynasties.

Tourism and trekking

Asirgarh remains surprisingly under-visited, making it ideal for travellers seeking offbeat heritage. The approach involves a steep but manageable climb, either on foot or by vehicle, up to a certain point, followed by walking across the fort levels.

The trek is moderate, and the best time is between October and February when the weather is cool, and visibility is high. From the upper fort, views stretch across the Tapti valley, once a vital trade corridor.

Today, many tunnel areas are closed for safety, but even viewing their entrances and layouts offers a powerful sense of the fort’s hidden complexity.

Also Read: Chitradurga: The fort with legends, military architecture and rainwater harvesting

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