How Nabarangpur’s tribal artisans are turning traditional jewellery into trendy pieces

Phula, Jali Phula and Tamatulu for the ears; Khutia, Labanga Kada and Besri for the nose; Ginimali, Sorishamali and Dhanamali for the neck; and Pahuchi, Kalivari and Gajra for the arms. These are among more than 60 designs of traditional tribal jewellery crafted in Nabarangpur district of Odisha by recycling silver, brass and copper. 

The pieces are etched, welded, scraped, scrubbed and moulded mostly by artisans belonging primarily to tribal communities like the Bathudis and to other backward castes like the Sunaris, who have been engaged in this traditional occupation for generations.

Earlier made for tribal communities such as the Bhathudis, Kondhs, Parajas, Gonds, Gadabas and Dhuruas, these ornaments have now found patrons far beyond their indigenous roots. 

Blend of tradition and modern aesthetics

Women from both tribal and non-tribal communities in and outside Odisha now wear these handcrafted ornaments, sold online and through exhibitions. 

“I purchased a Suryamali, a ‘Nathni’, and a pair of ‘Betla’ for the ears, two ‘Nagmori’ for the arms and ‘Sipna’ with clips for the hair for my daughter for Rs 35,000 last year from different stalls at Adivasi Mela in Bhubaneswar,” says Soumetri Panigrahi, a patron of traditional crafts.

The handmade ornaments have gained popularity as artisans have introduced a fusion of modern and traditional styles, retaining the distinctive stamp of tribal design while meeting contemporary tastes.

In this, the Nabarangpur units of the Odisha Rural Development and Marketing Society (ORMAS) and the State Directorate of Handicrafts have played a supportive role.

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Some jewellers continue to follow entirely traditional designs. For instance, the conventional ‘Ahali Hara’ is made by stringing silver coins, each punched with a hole, through thick cotton thread or silver wire.

However, a growing number of young Sunari and tribal jewellers are incorporating contemporary elements while retaining traditional aesthetics, says Padamini Kati, a jeweller from Churahandi village.

“For example, we now make Mangal Sutra, which was not made earlier. One design consists of small brass beads that resemble mustard seeds or paddy seeds. These beads are sometimes strung with mini brass ‘bela patra’ (stone apple leaves) that reflect traditional tribal style,” says Padamini.

“Its pendant can resemble the ones that non-tribal modern married women prefer to wear,” she adds.

Metals and materials

Earlier, waste aluminium utensils costing Rs 300 to Rs. 400 per kg were used to make ornaments such as ‘Paidi’ for the leg, ‘Kakila’ for the neck and ‘Bauti’ for the hands. Aluminium jewellery, however, has declined in popularity, while demand for brass and copper has surged. 

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Silver pieces such as ‘Holi’ (bracelet), ‘Mundi’ (finger ring), ‘Jhutia’ (toe ring) and ‘Kiyumarmas’ (a set of ear rings) are also now preferred more than aluminium, says jeweller Mathura Sarabu from Pilika village. He belongs to the Sunari community.

“We use mostly old silver provided by customers, but sometimes we also purchase silver at about Rs 1200 for 12 grams. Brass sheets or wires now cost Rs 1200 to Rs 1800 per kg, while copper sheets or wires cost Rs 1200 to Rs 2000 per kg,” Mathura explains.

Prices vary according to thickness and market fluctuation, which directly affects ornament costs.

These ornaments are worn from head to toe, especially during major festivals such as ‘Chaita Parab’, ‘Mandei Utsav’, ‘Pus Parab’ and ‘Nuakhai’, as well as on special occasions like ‘Vivaha’ (marriage) and ‘Nama Karan’ (naming ceremony). On everyday occasions, tribal women usually wear lighter ornaments on the nose, neck, arms and wrists.

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Currently, a small ornament like a ‘Besri’ (for the nose) or a pair of ‘Jhika’ (ear studs) sells for Rs 20 to Rs 50, while a ‘Ginimali’ (chain of miniature cymbals for the neck) costs Rs 100 to Rs 150. A pair of ‘Khadu’ (wrist bangles) is also sold within the same range, although heavier or more intricate designs fetch higher prices.

Brass is predominantly used for ornaments for the nose, neck and ears, copper for pieces like ‘Khadu’, and combinations of both metals for bracelets.

A family of artisans typically produces 200 to 250 small ornaments such as ‘Jhika’ per week and up to 150 medium-sized ornaments like ‘Ginimali’. They make 25 to 30 pieces of larger ornaments like ‘Ahali Hara’ weekly. Production varies based on family size and workload.

“We use copper for several ornaments traditionally worn by tribes such as Gandias, Kondhs and Gadabas. For example, ‘Malatada’ (waist chain) is worn mostly by Gandias, while ‘Khagla’ (heavy neck rings) are worn by Gadabas," says artisan Parasuram Sarabu of Lambhata hamlet.

"However, ‘Khadu’ is common across almost all tribal communities,” he adds.

Tools and Skills Passed Through Generations

To enhance shine, artisans sometimes apply ‘suna pani’ (gold-water solution), available at around Rs1250 per 100 ml. It is used only on brass ornaments to give a golden glaze, Mathura added.

Artisan families work with more than 55 tools while handling heated metals in blazing charcoal ovens.

These include ‘Chimuta’ (large tongs), ‘Samna’ (small tongs), ‘Jabgar’ (for flattening wires), ‘Karli’ (frames to shape designs), ‘Dubu’ (for bead-making), ‘Garsi’ (for welding), and ‘Nih’ (hammer), among many others used by the local ‘kansari’ community.

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In 2017, ORMAS Nabarangpur began training jewellers in product diversification and capacity building, continuing for two more years. Each year, a batch of about 35 artisans received 15 days of training from a master trainer brought from Chhattisgarh, who was paid Rs.1500 per day plus food and lodging.

“We formed a producer group ‘Adivasi Alankar Utpadaka Gosthi’ in Churahandi, comprising seven self-help groups of women artisans. We provide exhibition space at state-level events such as Adivasi Mela in Bhubaneswar and the International Trade Fair in New Delhi,” says Alaka Uma Mahesh, former Joint CEO of ORMAS Nabarangpur, now posted in Koraput.

The State Directorate of Handicrafts also trained about 25 artisans in 2023 for 15 days under two master trainers from Chhattisgarh, each paid Rs.1500 daily. “An artisan family earlier earned Rs 15000 to Rs.20000 every month but now earns around Rs 30000 after training. Income can rise up to Rs 60000 at state-level exhibitions, and artisans can earn up to Rs 2 lakh when attending major fairs,” says Roshan Kartik, deputy CEO of ORMAS Nabarangpur.

“Each year we send two best artisans to a state-level exhibition and two to exhibitions outside the state. This continues every year,” he adds.

(Niroj Ranjan Misra is a Cuttack-based freelance writer. He writes on rural and tribal life, social issues, art and culture, and sports.)

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