How this Sikkim man handcrafted the revival of centuries-old Lepcha bamboo hats

When the Chogyal dynasty ruled Sikkim from 1642 to 1975, it introduced a unique headgear for royal soldiers. The hat was called the Sumok Thyaktuk or Lepcha hat. Intricately woven from cane and local bamboo, the traditional headgear was the symbol of identity of Sikkim’s indigenous Lepcha community. Wearing it was a must on special occasions such as weddings, births, funeral rituals and religious celebrations.

However, the tradition of handcrafting Lepcha hats was on the verge of extinction after machine-made modern products flooded the markets of Sikkim. That’s when bamboo artist Jordan Lepcha stepped in to revive the craft. 

The seeds of tradition

In his childhood, Jordan spent hours watching his father weaving bamboo into baskets. “I never went to school as my agrarian family could not afford the fees.  As a kid, I would watch my late father Lamba Lepcha making bamboo baskets for domestic use. I learnt the skills of weaving bamboo by observing him. He was my first instructor,” says Jordan.

“When I was sixteen, I learnt how to weave Sumok Thyaktuk (Lepcha hats) from my father. By then, our community members had discontinued weaving them and the craft had almost vanished,” says the 53-year-old artisan.

In 1997, Jordan registered for a six-month traditional hat-weaving training programme by the Industry Department of the Sikkim Government. The programme helped him become more proficient at weaving bamboo and carving wood.  

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Since bamboo is significantly lighter than wood and abundant in Sikkim, he decided to focus on reviving the traditional craft of making Lepcha headgear. Over time, he shared his knowledge with 150 others who took up the age-old craft of weaving. For his outstanding work towards reviving the Lepcha Hats, Jordan received the Padma Shri in 2024.

Conservation and revival of a dying art

“People in our community are becoming less interested in wearing traditional clothing, especially hats, due to the popularity of Western attire,” Jordan says. 

Sikkim also lacks an industry large enough to start producing hats on a wider scale. 

“I'm doing my best to maintain the old dying techniques, and I'm grateful to the Directorate of Handicrafts and Handloom for providing me with the training,” Jordan tells 30Stades.

After his training, he began sharing his expertise by leading training sessions for aspiring craftsmen in Gangtok at the request of the Directorate of Handicrafts and Handloom in 2005. The bamboo artisan says, “I provided free training sessions at my residence, and have trained 150 individuals to carry forward the ancient craft of Lepcha hat weaving.”

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Jordan insists that the next generation learn new skills from other ethnic groups as well. After receiving training from Jordan, many young people have become craft entrepreneurs, making Lepcha hats and other bamboo goods.

“A single hat costs Rs.25000. It’s expensive because of the quality, time and precision involved,” he says.

“Moreover, cane and bamboo have a limited market because of their extreme durability. Goods that are sold last longer. For instance, a couch set costs between Rs. 15,000 and Rs 20.000 and lasts for more than ten years,” says Jordan, who belongs to the Rong or Lepcha aboriginal group.

Making of a Lepcha hat

Hats are made from two indigenous bamboo species known as Po-young and Tsoya (in the Lepcha dialect). There are four layers in a hat: the top layer is called Sungdyong song, the second layer is termed Ee-mik, the third layer is named Sumok tsum, and the bottom layer is dubbed Afyel.  

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Cane and bamboo are the main raw material. They are abundant in Dzongu, a valley in the foothills of Mount Khangchendzonga, where Lepchas have lived for centuries. 

“To get the best quality cane and bamboo, I walk several miles with my artisans inside the forested area.” 

The bamboo is chopped off at the root and cut in smaller pieces to fit into a three-foot sack,” Jordan says. At home or workshop, a sharp instrument called a Dao-Khukri is used to shred the bamboo batons into reedy strips. Producing the design from the shredded bamboo and cane strings requires a unique artistry.

The shredded bamboo strips are heated to ensure smoothness and form for hat-making. Preparing the bamboo and cane threads takes the maximum time.

Jordan says the threads are dyed green or red using a natural dye produced locally to give it an attractive appearance. An additional emblem on a hat is the Sutshuk Lavo, a representation of the sun and moon fashioned out of metal or wood. Creating the spherical 4-mm-thick foundation is the first step in the weaving process. The hat has a radius of between 22 and 25 inches, a height of 6 inches and a weight of 30 grams.

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“It takes me two-and-a-half months and patience and hard work to finish one Sumok Thyak Tuk hat (worn mostly by the socially elevated community members).”

"Each part of a hat and its artistic design holds its traditional meaning and significance. I make only three hats in a year,” he says. 

He also crafts Papre hats, mostly worn by the common Lepcha people.

Bamboo and cane are also used to make utilitarian items like hairpins, winnowing baskets, spoons, couch sets, cups, mugs, trays, containers, candle stands, and flasks. 

The majority of the merchandise is sold through orders. Most of the buyers are locals. However, occasionally orders are placed by visitors from other states. His yearly income is Rs5 lakh.

Jordan is thankful to his late father, a master craftsman, who specialised in bamboo making. He was awarded a Certificate of Merit by the Ministry of Textile and the prestigious title of Master Craftsman for the State of Sikkim for his competence, commitment and hard work. 

“I had never imagined that my skill would be acknowledged on a national scale and I would get India's fourth highest civilian honour, the Padma Shri,” Jordan says.

(Partho Burman is a Kolkata-based award-winning journalist. He writes inspiring human interest and motivational stories.)

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