Bidar Fort: Palaces above, hidden waterways below

The Bidar Fort is perched on the rugged Deccan plateau of northern Karnataka, appearing like a vast walled city. Spread over 180 acres, the fort is a self-contained world of palaces, mosques, gateways, gardens, and a marvel of medieval engineering hidden under its soil. 

With over 30 monuments inside the Bidar fort, the complex is on the UNESCO tentative list for a World Heritage Site.

The Bahmani Sultanate shifted its capital from Gulbarga to Bidar in 1427 under Sultan Ahmad Shah Wali. The move was strategic as the hilltop city offered better defences and a cooler climate. But it was also symbolic. Ahmad Shah wanted to build a cultural centre that reflected his ties with Persia (present-day Iran). 

Persian architects, craftsmen, and calligraphers were invited to create what is now the Bidar Fort, unlike any other in southern India.

One of the biggest among forts of India, it boasted grand palaces, including the Rangin Mahal, adorned with coloured tiles, mother-of-pearl inlay, and Persian-style stucco. The Tarkash Mahal was built for the Sultan’s Turkish wife, while the Solah Khamba Mosque, with its 16 imposing arches, was among the largest in India at the time. The fort’s bastions and gates were equally impressive, designed not just for war but to showcase imperial power.

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The ingenious waterways of Bidar

What truly sets Bidar Fort apart is its underground water system. The fort stood on a dry laterite plateau with little access to perennial rivers. To sustain the city and its army, the Bahmani engineers developed the Karez system. It is a network of underground canals modelled on Persian qanats.

It consisted of gently sloping tunnels dug into the plateau, connected by vertical air shafts. These tunnels tapped into groundwater sources or natural springs and channelled water underground over long distances without evaporation losses. The water emerged into tanks, gardens, and palaces, providing a steady supply throughout the year.

Local lore says underground water channels were so cleverly concealed that enemy besiegers could never cut off the fort’s water supply. This secret kept Bidar resilient even during prolonged attacks. 

Today, six centuries later, some parts of the Karez remain functional, carrying water to local settlements. This has been made possible with the efforts of the Deccan Heritage Foundation (DHF).

In 2015, DHF began restoring and renewing the Karez system to collect, transport, store, and distribute clean water to the local community. It mapped nearly 3 km of intact tunnels with 36 wells along the stretch. 

One of the Karez serves as a water source for nearby areas and irrigates about 117 acres of farmland.

At its height, Bidar was a thriving capital. The Rangin Mahal echoed with music and poetry while the Barid Shahi rulers patronised Persian and Deccani literature, turning the city into a cultural hub. Markets flourished near the gates, selling Bidriware - a unique craft of silver inlay on black metal that continues even today.

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Historical anecdotes from travellers describe the fort as impregnable and elegant. The Portuguese chronicler Duarte Barbosa noted its fine palaces and bustling trade. 

Decline and Rediscovery

After the fall of the Bahmani Sultanate in 1527, Bidar came under the Barid Shahis and later the Mughals. By the 17th century, the fort’s importance waned as Hyderabad rose in prominence under the Asaf Jahis. 

Yet the fort never lost its aura. Local communities continued to hold fairs and festivals around the precincts, and Bidriware artisans carried forward the city’s legacy of craftsmanship.

British officers who visited in the 19th century wrote admiringly of its ruined palaces, comparing them to “an open-air museum of Persian art in India.”

Also Read: Bidri: The metal craft creating magic in black and silver for over 500 years

Today, Bidar Fort is maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and remains one of Karnataka’s major heritage sites. The Rangin Mahal has been partially restored, its inlaid walls still gleaming in the sunlight. The Solah Khamba Mosque continues to awe visitors with its symmetry and scale. Tourists can still walk along the massive ramparts and look down at the old city spread below.

The most fascinating rediscovery, however, is the Karez system. In recent years, local historians and water engineers have been working to clean and map the tunnels. Some parts now provide water to nearby fields, proving the system’s functionality even after six centuries. For modern water conservationists, Bidar is not just history. It is a model of sustainable engineering.

Also Read: Gingee Fort: The 800-year-old Great Wall of South India

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