Tawang: The monastery above the clouds

Nestled in the serene valley of Tawang Chu, Tawang Monastery in Arunachal Pradesh is the country's largest Buddhist monastery. Located at 10,000 feet (3,000 meters), it is often shrouded in mist and clouds passing by. 

With this high altitude and the surrounding mountains, the monastery seems suspended among the clouds for most of the year. Also known by its Tibetan name Gaden Namgyal Lhatse, meaning ‘celestial paradise of complete victory’, it offers a majestic view of the Tawang Chu River valley. 

A major attraction for pilgrims and tourists, the 344-year-old Tawang Monastery is known for its cultural richness and breathtaking views. It draws visitors from all over the world, particularly during festivals like the Torgya Festival.

Tawang Monastery was founded in 1680–1681 by Merak Lama Lodre Gyatso per the wishes of the 5th Dalai Lama, Ngawang Lobsang Gyatso. 

Legends and Lore

The establishment of Tawang Monastery is steeped in spiritual legend. The most renowned tale recounts that Merak Lama, unable to choose a site for the monastery, prayed in a cave for divine guidance. Upon exiting, he discovered his horse missing.

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The animal was later found peacefully grazing on the hilltop of Tana Mandekhang, a place of historical royal significance, and this was interpreted as a divine sign. The monastery was then constructed at that very location.

The name “Tawang” is derived from “Ta” (horse) and “Wang” (chosen), referring to a divine horse that selected the site.

Another legend ties the monastery’s name to the Buddhist master Terton Pemalingpa, who performed sacred initiations at the site. A third story tells of a white horse from Lhasa that wandered into the area and was revered by the locals, who later built the monastery where it was found.

The architecture

Architecturally, the monastery resembles a fortified complex and is three stories high, enclosed within a wall of 282 m perimeter. It comprises 65 residential buildings, several temples, administrative quarters, and a vast library. 

The monastery's design was influenced by spiritual symbolism and defensive necessity, as it was built during a time of sectarian tensions between the Gelug and Nyingma sects and threats from Bhutanese Drukpas.

Tawang Monastery serves not only as a religious institution but also as an administrative centre. It oversees 17 smaller gompa in the West Kameng district.

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The monastery had a unique parliamentary administrative system known as the Kato, where senior lamas formed a council independent of the central Tibetan administration. Even during British colonial rule, Tawang maintained a degree of autonomy, signing agreements in 1844 with the East India Company related to territorial and financial arrangements. 

Artistic and Religious Treasures

The monastery is home to a priceless collection of religious texts and artefacts. Its library, housed on the second floor, contains hand-written and printed versions of the Kangyur and Tengyur, the two main collections of scriptures and commentaries in the Tibetan Buddhist canon.

The library also houses rare scriptures like Zungdui and Gyetongpa. Many texts are decorated with gold ink, highlighting their sacred status.

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A remarkable feature of the main temple, the Dukhang, is the 18-foot gilded image of the Buddha in the lotus position. Installed in 1860-61, this serene figure dominates the prayer hall. 

Adjacent is a silver casket housing a thangka of Palden Lhamo (Sro Devi), the monastery’s guardian deity. 

This thangka is believed to have been painted with the blood of the 5th Dalai Lama, imbuing it with a "living" essence. 

Community, Conservation and Festivals

As of the early 2000s, the monastery housed around 400–450 monks. A monastic school, a cultural centre, and a dedicated water supply system support the daily life and spiritual training of the monks. Many young Monpa boys join the monastery as novices under a tradition that often designates specific sons within a family for monastic life.

In 2006, the Tawang Manuscript Conservation Centre was established within the monastery to preserve its ancient texts. However, the monastery has faced threats from natural disasters; reports in 2010 highlighted risks from landslides due to the site's topography and river erosion. 

Tawang Monastery is the spiritual heart of several major festivals celebrated by the Monpa community. Key among them is Torgya, a vibrant three-day festival held annually in January, marked by elaborate masked dances that depict mythical and spiritual narratives. 

Other festivals include Choksar, which involves scripture recitations and processions for agricultural blessings, and Losar, the Tibetan New Year. Almost 350 years after it was built, the Tawang Monastery remains a living sanctuary of faith and tradition.

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