The fading opulence of Chettinad’s abandoned mansions

In the heart of the triangle formed by Tamil Nadu’s heritage sites of Thanjavur, Trichy, and Madurai lies Chettinad – a region with a unique cuisine, architecture and history. Also known as Chettinadu, it is 400 km from the capital Chennai and is home to over 10,000 sprawling mansions, of which around 75 percent stand abandoned by their owners.

The history of Chettinadu goes back to the 15th century. At that time, the Nagarathars or Nattukottai Chettiars, a mercantile community, traded precious stones, spices, salt and rice from Kancheepuram and sold their products in Southeast Asian countries. 

They lived in the port city of Cauvery Poompattinam (now Poompuhar), which made trading easier. However, due to a massive flood, they had to leave their homes and decided to move away from the water.

At that time, Pandya King Soundara Pandiyan invited the Chettiars to enhance economic activity in his semi-arid region. The Chettiars then settled in the villages allocated by the king, which include areas in present-day Sivagangai and Pudukottai districts. 

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This new settlement evolved into the Chettinad region, encompassing 96 villages, spread across 600-1500 square miles, of which only 75 remain. 

The Natukottai Chettiars, with a lineage of wealthy traders and financiers, made their fortunes by extending their business to Southeast Asia, particularly during the second half of the 19th and early 20th centuries. 

They expanded their ventures across Southeast Asia, including Sri Lanka, Singapore, Burma, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Malaysia. They built huge mansions from the 1850s to 1940s that could house their joint families and keep their wives and children safe when they were away for months for trading. The number of mansions is estimated to be between 10,000 and 15,000 now. 

Also Read: Bhunga: The 200-year-old earthquake-resistant mud houses of Kutch

The Chettinad architecture

These mansions were planned to perform all the rituals and family celebrations from birth and marriage to death. Each mansion typically has more than 40 rooms and three to four courtyards. Spanning over an acre and often covering an entire street, these grand structures are referred to by locals as ‘periya veedu’, meaning big houses.

The Chettiars invested their wealth and passion into creating their dream homes. Inspired by European architecture, they hired local architects and sourced materials from around the world. Even though about 70 percent of the mansions are now locked or in a state of disrepair, they once oozed opulence. 

Materials and expertise were brought from all over the world to construct these mansions. 

The teak wood was imported from Burma, satinwood from Ceylon, cast iron and steel from the UK, marble from Italy and Belgium, ceiling in metal plates from Great Britain, and chandeliers from Belgium, France and Italy. 

As they required the best, they also brought skills from different regions of India such as woodcarving, frescoes and egg-plastering. In fact, egg-plastering is a mason craft on the verge of extinction as the technique was specifically developed for the Chettinad mansions.

Also Read: Chettinad’s masons slowly revive centuries-old lime-egg wall plaster technique

Alongside, the Chettiars incorporated distinctive elements of vernacular Tamil architecture, such as wide open courtyards, raised verandas, intricately carved wooden frames, and stucco reliefs depicting Hindu deities. 

The local architecture, with thick brick walls, lime mortar, wooden ceilings, and terracotta tiles, keeps the houses cool during summer. The mansions have facilities for rainwater harvesting.

Abandoning the mansions

The Second World War in 1939, however, was a turning point in the history of Chettiars and Chettinadu. Their trading businesses came to a halt. Most of the Chettiars either migrated overseas to places where they had business contacts or to other parts of Tamil Nadu like Chennai where they became bankers and financiers. Singapore, Sri Lanka and Myanmar have a large population of Chettiars.

The result was that their mansions were left behind, largely unattended or some looked after by caretakers. 

Most of the mansions remain abandoned due to the prohibitive costs of maintenance and restoration or ongoing legal disputes over ownership. 

Some, like the Athangudi Palace, have overcome challenges and are open to visitors for a day tour at a ticket of Rs50 to Rs100. They, however, do not allow visitors to the first floor due to high maintenance costs. They also don’t give out the spacious and luxurious place for shootings as the bright lights can adversely affect the paint and woods of the Hermitage mansion.  

Some others have been converted into heritage hotels, like the Saratha Vilas -- a beautiful house built in 1905 by a wealthy Chettiar merchant. It has been converted into a heritage boutique hotel by two French architects impassioned by the rich history of the Chettinad region. Chidambara Vilas is another luxury heritage resort.

Constructed in 1902, the beautiful Chettinadu Mansion in Kāraikkudi features stunning architecture, Italian marble flooring and wooden furnishings with ornamental details.

The mansions of Chettinad are a visual treat. They are also a living testimony to the ever-changing nature of life. And they also give a glimpse into the past grandeur and opulence of the Chettiars and Chettianadu.

Also Read: Nalukettu: Kerala’s eco-friendly traditional homes

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