Talatal Ghar: The palace with underground storeys and secret tunnels

Confusing the enemy is the easiest way to escape during an attack. The kings of the Ahom dynasty, which ruled Assam for 600 years (1228 to 1826) knew this well. A testimony to their military acumen is the Talatal Ghar – a seven-storied palace with secret tunnels and mazes in Rangpur, Assam.

Talatal Ghar is one of the largest and most elaborate surviving structures built by the Ahom dynasty, known for its engineering and architectural skills. Its three underground storeys are known as Talatal Ghar and the four upper storeys are known as Kareng Ghar. The above-ground floors were used for royal meetings and administrative work, while the subterranean levels functioned as military zones.

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King Rudra Singha relocated his capital from Garhgaon to Rangpur in 1707, then known as Tengabari. 

He invited architect Ghanashyam from Cooch Behar to serve as the chief architect, entrusting him with designing Rangpur's new capital city and the palace. 

Talatal Ghar was made using semi-permanent materials like wood and timber. 

Subsequently, his successor, King Rajeswar Singha, expanded Talatal Ghar in 1765 extensively using bricks. The upper floors, now exposed, were destroyed during conflicts such as the Moamaria rebellion, Burmese invasions, and by the British.

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Secret tunnels and legends of Talatal

The largest of all Tai-Ahom monuments, the palace was initially built as an army base. It has two secret tunnels. 

The first tunnel is about 3 km and connects to the Dikhow River, while the other, about 16km, leads to the Garhgaon Palace. It was used as an escape route during conflicts with other kingdoms.

There are also stories of people getting lost forever in the maze-like underground chambers. This led the British to close the entrance leading underground.

Today, Talatal Ghar is a popular tourism destination because of its history and architecture. Tourists can visit the two surviving above-ground levels with labyrinthine galleries and a large flat roof holding several pavilions.

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In 2015, a Ground Penetrating Radar (GPR) survey was carried out by IIT Kanpur in collaboration with the Archaeological Survey of India (Guwahati Circle). The survey suggested the possible presence of underground structures between 1.9m and 4m beneath the garden, towards the monument's left-hand corner. 

Researchers speculated that this substructure might be a double foundation, possibly built to withstand earthquakes.

Another enduring legend linked to the monument is that one of its sealed above-ground chambers conceals the Rajbharal—the royal treasury of the Ahom dynasty. 

It is believed by some to still hold immense wealth. No one knows the truth of the treasure.

Indigenous architecture

The palace uses vernacular architecture techniques like local bricks and a type of indigenous cement in construction. The Ahoms used a special kind of cement made from a mix of bora chaul (sticky rice), swan eggs, and limestone, showcasing early innovation in construction.

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The Talatal Ghar has many rooms. Eighteen steps lead to the first floor of the palace. The upper floors housed the living quarters of kings and royal families. The second-floor room has five doors, and several ruined sculptures can be seen inside.

On the opposite side of the Talatal Ghar was the maternity home with two doors and four windows.

The ground floor was used for functional purposes such as horse stables, portals (military storehouses), warehouses, chantri-chaudang (guards' quarters), and rooms where ligiris (attendants or helpers) were stationed.

A long corridor runs from east to west on the ground floor, with several rooms along it. 

The puja house (prayer room) was located on the northern side of the Talatal Ghar. Octagonal in shape, it had eight corners. Lord Shiva was worshipped in the puja house, which stands there even today. 

It had a single door about 7.1 feet high and 5.2 feet wide.

Despite multiple invasions in the region, the Mughals never managed to conquer this part of Assam largely due to the strongholds like Talatal Ghar and the strategic might of the Ahoms. 

Talatal Ghar is now preserved by the Archaeological Survey of India and is an important heritage and tourist site, reflecting the glory of Assam’s royal past.

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